SUBAQUATICA FIJI

Here's a clip I made of some underwater randomness in Fiji last month. Brandon and Trevor star in some peculiar shots, filmed when there weren't any waves during our stay in the north eastern part of the country. Man how I miss that water....

BOGGED

I am lost in a sea of content that despite my most valiant efforts, grows more ferocious and unruly every day. I have so much to share of such a vast array of things, but alas it does nothing but compound with the speed of daily life and slurp me into the depths of its abyss. I'm on track to get back on the program very soon, but in the mean time please enjoy the art of someone who mulches my overgrown garden of a life with inspiration every day. and listen to this classic too.

JUMP

Patrick Trefz is an amazing photographer.

IT WAS OFFSHORE

On my way home from San Diego I met up and surfed this secret spot with Brandon, Trevor, Conner and Walters. It was absolutely frozen and gusting offshore, with this peculiar lighting that had me running to put away the board for the camera. Upon determining I had no clue what I was going for, I sat back and watched this strange session unfold. Here are some from that frigid evening.

RECENT INSPIRATION

Photos by: Gpee, Warzauwyn, Monochrome Chicken, Noah Kalina and Hannah Elisabeth.

CRAY

MEH

panorama film from around

been super busy lately... lots of video and photos coming soon :)

START / FINISH

Drove from the pier to the point one day. 

BABIES

Can't wait to see this.

IN SEARCH OF

My friend Dan showed me this video he's been working on... fantastic stuff mate.

SCREENSHOTZ

Regurgitating some favorable screenshots from October's Rincon surfing clip.

THE FALL

As per Corina's recommendation, I watched Tarsem Singh's "The Fall". WOW. What a bizarre and extraordinary movie. While it was nowhere near a masterpiece, The movie carries the same air as Kurosawa's "Ran" and Fricke's "Baraka" (two of my favorite movies), as it explored the deceptive fantasies of a drug-hungry hospital patient. Definitely watch it.

THE CAPSULE

BEAUTIFUL MISS

Not to long ago Brandon, Trevor and I loaded up into Trev's van and hit the 101 to score a mythical wave that looked to be breaking. We drove through the night and slept stealthily parked between some sand dunes to the sounds of elephant seals off-gassing and snoring. Upon waking up we were greeted with absolutely gorgeous conditions, and so we embarked on the hike to the slab of our dreams. The path we took was drenched in shimmering moss, deer, hawks, pine trees and fresh bear feces. Upon reaching the wave, the swell was showing but the tide was too high, and rising higher by the minute. We contemplated surfing a mushy a-frame we encountered earlier on the trail, but ultimately decided to go surf another spot which was firing, that I would have been murdered if seen taking photos at.

LOMO DOWN

I've seemed to misplace my Lomo Fisheye and waterhousing... this is no good. Here are some of my favorites from that silly toy camera; for awhile there it never left my side.

FALL FUN

Brandon, Trevor and I spent an intense week at everyone's favorite beachbreak in 805 earlier this fall. Surfing, bodysurfing, shooting photos and In-N-Out runs we're all in a day's work. Here are some random shots... the 5th photo actually shows Brandon's board hitting the port on my housing. Luckily no damage occured aside from some easily fixable scratches. 

BOOST

Brandon and Trevor enjoying a good day at the Pit...

AN EVENING AT THE CON

Not too long ago a fun fall swell rolled through town, calling for us to converge for an evening session at the Queen. Having injured myself surfing the day prior, I sat this session out to shoot slow shutters into the night with my telephoto. Thankfully, there was no shortage of talent, as Tyler Warren was passing through town with his new, self-shaped "White Pony", and the regulars were out doing their thing. Daniel Graham was logging gracefully and of course I rolled down with T-rev, making for an entertaining night.

BLUE

A great day; just Nole, Brandon and I at a rather powerful reef.

MINI BARRELS OF MEH

Some wonderfully crappy hepatitis barrels from your typical small & dirty day in SB.

EVENING SESSIONS

Trevor and I found some fun evening waves in town so i dusted off my 300mm f/4.

PANORAMIC

i got this wicked little 35mm point-and-shoot panorama camera on ebay that i've been caring around with me as a pocket snapper. Here are some of the more interesting shots; most others are personal, awkward or irrelevant.

MORE WOOD CRAFT

Another fun day of shaping alaias at Chadd and Nole's...

SUNDAY DELIGHT

My beautiful friends, Brevor and Trandon. Check out their team pages.

WIDDLE WAVES